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When you start formulating cosmetics, one of the most important concepts you’ll come across is the Safety Usage Rate (SUR). At first, it may sound like just another technical term, but understanding it is critical to creating safe, effective, and compliant products.


Let’s break down what safety usage rates are, why they matter, and how they protect both you and the people using your products.


What Are Safety Usage Rates?

A Safety Usage Rate is the maximum percentage of an ingredient that can be safely included

in a cosmetic formulation. These percentages are determined through extensive testing,

toxicological data, and international safety standards.


Every raw material—whether natural or synthetic—has its own unique usage rate.


These guidelines are provided by suppliers, regulatory bodies, and industry references such as:

IFRA (International Fragrance Association) for essential oils and fragrances

CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel in the U.S.

EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) in Europe


For Example:

● Liquid Germall Plus: max 0.5%

● Salicylic Acid: max 2% in leave-on products (higher in wash-off)

● Lavender Essential Oil: typically safe at up to 1–2% in leave-on formulas (check IFRA

for exact limits depending on product type)


Why Safety Usage Rates Are Important

1. Protecting Consumer Safety

Cosmetic ingredients can cause skin irritation, sensitization, or long-term health effects if used above their tested limits. Following safety usage rates ensures your products are safe for daily use and won’t cause harm.


2. Ensuring Regulatory Compliance

Every country has cosmetic regulations, and exceeding safety usage rates can result in your

products being pulled from shelves—or even legal consequences. Working within these

guidelines keeps your formulations compliant and market-ready.


3. Maintaining Product Stability

Too much of a raw material can destabilize your formulation. For example:

● Too much preservative may cause skin irritation.

● Too little emulsifier can lead to separation or a product that feels unpleasant on the skin.

● Too high a concentration of an active can make the product ineffective or unsafe to use.


4. Building Trust with Your Customers

Consumers are increasingly educated about ingredients. When you respect safety usage rates and communicate that to your audience, you build credibility and trust in your brand.


How to Apply Safety Usage Rates

1. Always Formulate in Percentages

Percentages make it easy to stay within usage limits, no matter the batch size.

Example: If a preservative has a maximum rate of 1%, then whether you make 100 g or

10,000 g, you’ll never exceed the safe amount if you follow the percentage.


2. Check the Right References

Don’t rely on random internet formulas (recipes). Always use supplier documentation,

IFRA standards, or regulatory databases.


3. Stay on the Lower End if Unsure

If an ingredient has a safe range (e.g., 0.2–0.5%), start at the lower end until you

understand its function in your formula.


Example: Preservative Safety Usage

Let’s say you’re formulating a lotion and choose Liquid Germall Plus. Its maximum usage rate

is 0.5%.

● In a 100 g batch → you can add up to 0.5 g

● In a 1,000 g batch → you can add up to 5 g


If you were to use 1% instead, you’d risk skin irritation, regulatory issues, and product recalls.

Percentages keep you within the safe zone automatically.



Final Thoughts

Safety usage rates aren’t just guidelines—they are the foundation of safe cosmetic science.

They ensure your formulations are effective, stable, legally compliant, and most importantly,

safe for the people using them.


As a formulator, your responsibility is to respect these limits and use them as a non-negotiable part of your formulation process. Doing so not only keeps your products safe but also builds confidence in your skills and in your brand.

 
 
 

The Truth About Skin Absorption: Do Cosmetics Really Enter the Bloodstream?

If you’ve spent any time online, you’ve probably seen claims that “everything you put on your skin goes straight into your bloodstream.” It sounds alarming—but it’s not accurate. The science of skin absorption is much more complex, and cosmetics are designed to work on the skin’s surface, not bypass its defenses. Let’s separate fact from fiction.


The Skin Barrier: Nature’s Shield

The skin is our first line of defense against the outside world. Its outermost layer—the stratum corneum—is made up of dead cells embedded in lipids, forming a dense barrier. This “brick-and-mortar” structure is extremely effective at blocking most substances.

For a molecule to even have a chance of moving beyond this layer, it usually needs to be very small—typically under 1000 Daltons in molecular weight. But even being small enough doesn’t guarantee that it will reach deeper layers.


Why Formulation Matters

Many skincare products are emulsions—blends of water and oil. Emulsions are useful because they can carry both hydrophilic (water-loving) and lipophilic (oil-loving) ingredients to the skin’s surface.

However, even with this delivery system, most cosmetic actives don’t travel far. After application, they may enter the stratum corneum, but navigating past tightly packed cells, lipids, and proteins to reach the dermis (where blood vessels are) is a monumental challenge.


Key Factors That Influence Absorption

Several variables determine whether an ingredient stays on the surface or penetrates further:

  • Molecular Size – Large molecules (over 1000 Daltons) typically stay put.

  • Polarity – Polar, water-soluble molecules struggle to pass through lipid-rich layers, while non-polar, oil-soluble molecules have better chances.

  • Solubility – If an ingredient isn’t compatible with the skin’s natural lipids, it won’t move past the surface.

  • pH – Human skin maintains an acidic pH (around 4.5–5.5). Ingredients outside this range interact less effectively.


The Bloodstream Myth

The biggest misconception? That skincare products “soak through” and circulate in the blood. In reality, cosmetics are not designed for systemic absorption.

Yes, transdermal drug delivery systems exist (like nicotine or hormone patches), but those are engineered with enhancers and specialized technology to bypass the skin’s defenses. Everyday cosmetics don’t have that capability.

For a substance to reach the bloodstream, it would need to pass through all skin layers and reach the dermis where blood vessels are located—a feat most cosmetic ingredients cannot achieve.


The Bottom Line

Cosmetics are formulated to improve the skin’s surface appearance and health, not to act as internal drugs. While certain small, well-formulated actives may penetrate into the upper layers of the epidermis, the leap to everything “entering the bloodstream” is far from fact.

The skin is an extraordinary protective barrier. Understanding how it works allows us to confidently use cosmetic products without falling prey to fear-driven misinformation. Always look for evidence-based information when evaluating claims about your skincare.


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Updated: Sep 11



Phase

% w/w

Trade Name/ INCI Name

Supplier

CAS Number

A

60%

Refined Shea Butter

Natural Bulk Supplies


A

10%

Aloe Butter

Natural Bulk Supplies


A

3.5%

Sunflower Oil

Natural Bulk Supplies


A

20%

Fractionated Coconut Oil (MCT Oil) 

Natural Bulk Supplies


A

1%

Jojoba Oil

Natural Bulk Supplies


A

4.5%

Arrowroot Powder (Refer to Notes)

Bulk Barn


A

0.5%

Vitamin E MT50

Natural Bulk Supplies


A

0.5%

Apple Crisp Fragrance Oil

Fizzy Fairy


















q.s

pH Buffer

pH Adjuster

N/A


100%

Total




METHOD

1.Weigh ingredients into a bowl and whip using a hand or stand mixer with a beater attachment.

2.

3.


Final pH required: N/A



NOTE:  


It is important to sift your Arrowroot to avoid any clumps.  


This body butter will not withstand hot climates. 


I strongly advise against purchasing ingredients on Amazon, unless it’s from Making Cosmetics or TKB Trading storefront.


I have included my suppliers for you to cross-check INCI + CAS# to source the materials globally.  Please remember emulsifiers with the same INCI but different CAS# can result in a different viscosity of your final product.


 
 
 
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