NatureMuls RSPO: A Modern PEG-Free Emulsifier with a Luxurious Skin Feel

By Kennece ShakiAvon

YOUR COSMETIC CHEMIST

When I first started formulating, I was honestly overwhelmed by emulsifiers. Every supplier

seemed to recommend something different, ingredient forums contradicted one another, and social media made it feel like certain emulsifiers were “good” while others were somehow “bad.” The truth is much more scientific than that.

An emulsifier is simply a tool. Different emulsifiers create different textures, different

aesthetics, and different formulation challenges. Learning how they work is far more

important than chasing trends online.

One emulsifier that has gained a lot of popularity in natural and PEG-free skincare is

NatureMuls RSPO (MB). It creates beautiful emulsions with a luxurious skin feel while still

being relatively approachable for formulators.

Today I want to break down:

• What is NatureMuls?

• What it’s made from?

• How does it work?

• Why does it behave differently from Emulsifying Wax NF?

• What formulators should know before working with it?

  
  

What is NatureMuls RSPO?

Kostol NatureMuls RSPO (MB) is a naturally derived, PEG-free oil-in-water emulsifier

designed for skincare and cosmetic emulsions.

It can be used to formulate:

• Creams

• Lotions

• Eye creams

• Facial moisturizers

• Masks

• Foundations

• Serum emulsions

• Mousse emulsions

One thing many formulators love about NatureMuls is the skin feel. It creates emulsions with

what we call a “medium to long break.” Instead of immediately disappearing into the skin, the emulsion feels rich, elegant, and cushiony during application before absorbing.

That sensory profile often gives formulations a more luxurious, high-end feel.

Recommended usage rates are typically:

• 3–6% for most formulations

• Up to 8% in some systems, depending on oil phase and viscosity goals

What Is NatureMuls Made Of?

NatureMuls is actually a complete emulsifying system made up of several ingredients

working together.

1. Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

This is the primary emulsifying portion of the system.

It is derived from:

• Jojoba oil

• Candelilla wax

• Rice bran wax

• Polyglyceryl-3 esters

This portion helps oil and water remain combined while contributing to the elegant skin feel

NatureMuls is known for.

I personally find that emulsifiers containing wax esters and fatty structures like this tend to

create creams that feel softer and more velvety on the skin compared to simpler emulsifier systems.

This ingredient also helps NatureMuls fit nicely into PEG-free and naturally derived marketing concepts.

2. Glyceryl Stearate

Glyceryl stearate is a co-emulsifier and consistency enhancer.

Its role includes:

• Supporting stability

• Improving viscosity

• Adding creaminess

• Enhancing glide

  
  

This ingredient is extremely common in skincare because it gives emulsions a richer and

more conditioned feel.

3. Cetearyl Alcohol

One thing I always like to remind beginner formulators is that fatty alcohols are not the same

as drying alcohols.

Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol that:

• Thickens emulsions

• Stabilizes formulations

• Improves texture

• Adds cushion and body

It plays a huge role in the final viscosity and luxurious skin feel of NatureMuls emulsions.

This ingredient is one of the reasons NatureMuls can create beautiful cream textures even at

moderate use levels.

4. Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate (SSL)

This is the ingredient formulators should pay the most attention to when working with

NatureMuls.

Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate is an anionic emulsifier.

Most of NatureMuls behaves similarly to a non-ionic system, but the SSL portion introduces

some anionic characteristics.

Why does this matter?

Because it can create:

• Some pH sensitivity

• Potential electrolyte sensitivity

• Compatibility concerns with certain cationic ingredients

  
  

This does not make NatureMuls difficult to formulate with. It simply means it may not be

quite as forgiving as fully non-ionic systems.

I think this is important to explain because online marketing sometimes makes natural

emulsifiers sound “better” or “cleaner,” while leaving out the fact that some systems can

actually be slightly more technically demanding.

How Does NatureMuls Work?

Oil and water naturally separate.

Emulsifiers work by sitting between those two phases and helping them remain combined.

NatureMuls contains molecules with:

• Water-loving portions (hydrophilic)

• Oil-loving portions (lipophilic)

These structures reduce surface tension and allow a stable oil-in-water emulsion to form.

The fatty alcohols and waxes inside the system also help:

• Build viscosity

• Improve stability

• Reduce separation

• Enhance aesthetics

  
  

This combination allows formulators to create anything from lightweight lotions to richer creams.

NatureMuls vs Emulsifying Wax NF

I get asked constantly whether natural emulsifiers are “better” than Emulsifying Wax NF.

The answer is honestly no — they are simply different.

Both systems have strengths.

What is Emulsifying Wax NF?

Emulsifying Wax NF is one of the most commonly used beginner emulsifiers in cosmetic formulation.

It is usually composed of:

• Cetearyl Alcohol

• Polysorbate 60 or similar ethoxylated emulsifiers

It is:

• Non-ionic

• Very stable

• Beginner-friendly

• Extremely forgiving

  
  

I still think Emulsifying Wax NF is one of the best emulsifiers for learning because it allows

formulators to focus on understanding emulsions without fighting instability issues constantly.

The Biggest Differences

1. PEG-Free vs Ethoxylated

NatureMuls

• PEG-free

• Naturally derived focused

• Popular in natural skincare marketing

  
  

Emulsifying Wax NF

Usually contains:

• PEG ingredients

• Ethoxylated materials

This is where a lot of fearmongering happens online.

PEGs are not automatically dangerous.

Modern cosmetic PEG materials are highly purified and widely used throughout professional

cosmetic manufacturing.

I think formulators should understand the science instead of making decisions based on

marketing buzzwords alone.

2. Formulation Flexibility

Emulsifying Wax NF

• Extremely forgiving

• Handles many ingredient combinations well

• More tolerant to pH variation

• Easier for beginners

NatureMuls

• Still approachable

• Slightly more formulation sensitive

• Requires more awareness of pH and compatibility

  
  

This is largely because of the Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate component.

3. Skin Feel

This is where NatureMuls really shines.

NatureMuls

Typically creates:

• Elegant creams

• Rich glide

• Medium to long break

• Cushiony application

  
  

Emulsifying Wax NF

Typically creates:

• More traditional lotion textures

• Faster absorption

• Simpler cream structures

Neither is wrong.

They simply create different aesthetics.

Tips for Working with NatureMuls

Keep an Eye on pH

Because of the SSL component, I recommend paying close attention to the final pH and

long-term stability.

A pH range around 5–6 is often a comfortable starting point.

Don’t Assume Natural Means Easier

This is something I really want beginner formulators to understand.

Natural emulsifiers can sometimes be:

• Less forgiving

• More sensitive

• More technically demanding

Natural does not automatically mean better, safer, or easier.

Good formulation is about understanding chemistry.

Stability Testing Still Matters

Even if an emulsion looks beautiful initially, stability testing is essential.

Always monitor:

• Separation

• pH drift

• Viscosity

• Heat stability

• Freeze/thaw stability

• Color changes

• Odor changes

A pretty cream is not automatically a stable cream.

NatureMuls RSPO is a beautiful, modern emulsifier capable of creating elegant, luxurious

emulsions with a sophisticated skin feel.

I think it’s an excellent option for formulators wanting:

• PEG-free systems

• Naturally derived marketing concepts

• Richer aesthetics

• More elegant textures

At the same time, I never want formulators to feel that they need to abandon emulsifiers like

Emulsifying Wax NF simply because social media trends label one as “cleaner.”

Both emulsifiers have a place in formulation.

Understanding how an emulsifier behaves — its charge, structure, compatibility, and stability

Profile — is far more important than marketing terminology.

The more you learn about the science behind your raw materials, the more confident and

Successful, you become as a formulator.

Safety Data Sheet

1. Identification

Product Name:	Kostol NatureMuls RSPO
INCI Name:	Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Product Code:	Wax# 6577
Product Use:	No restrictions. Use in accordance with applicable guidelines.
Manufacturer/Supplier:	Koster Keunen, Inc.
Address:	1021 Echo Lake Rd., P.O. Box 69, Watertown, CT 06795, USA
General Information:	860-945-3333
Emergency Number:	860-945-3333

2. Hazards Identification

GHS Classification:
Health	Not Classified
Environmental	Not Classified
Physical	Not Classified
GHS Label:
Symbol	None
Hazard Statement	None
Signal Words:	None
Toxic Components:	None

3. Composition / Information on Ingredients

Chemical identity: Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl

Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

Common name: Kostol NatureMuls RSPO

INCI Name	Component INCI Name	Percentage	CAS Number	EINECS
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters	Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil	30-65	61789-91-1	289-964-3
	Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate		37349-34-1	609-412-0
	Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax		8006-44-8	232-347-0
	Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax		8016-60-2	232-409-7
Glyceryl Stearate	Glyceryl Stearate	15-35	11099-07-3	234-325-6
Cetearyl Alcohol	Cetearyl Alcohol	15-35	67762-27-0	267-008-6
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate	Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate	3-10	25383-99-7	246-929-7

4. First-Aid Measures

Eye Contact:	Flush with cold water and seek medical attention. Irritation is possible. Burns can occur if the product is molten.
Skin Contact:	Flush with cold water and seek medical attention. Do not remove clothing or peel solidified product off the skin. This product is not absorbed by the skin. Irritation is possible.  Burns can occur if the product is molten.

5. Fire Fighting Measures

Suitable Extinguishing Media:	Foam, powder, water spray, and carbon dioxide. Do not use a heavy water stream.
Fire Fighting Procedures:	Wear self-contained breathing apparatus, rubber boots, and thick rubber gloves. Protect containers with water spray.
Combustion Products:	Thermal decomposition generates carbon oxides and irritating volatile organic compounds.

6. Accidental Release Measures

Personal Precautions:	Refer to Section 8.
Environmental Precautions:	Prevent entry to sewers and public waters (prevent clogging).
Methods and Materials for Containment and Cleaning-Up:	Allow the product to solidify if molten. Remove solidified product. This product is not a hazardous waste.

7. Handling and Storage

Handling:	Use with caution around heat, sparks, static electricity, and open flame.
Storage:	Store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated storage area away from direct sunlight. Do not store near oxidizing agents or strong acids.

8. Exposure Controls / Personal Protection

Exposure Limits:	Not Classified
Ventilation:	Ensure there is adequate ventilation.
Eye Protection:	Splash goggles or a face shield
Skin Protection:	Gloves, apron, or lab coat

9. Physical and Chemical Properties

Appearance	Off-White to Light Yellow Solid
Odor	Characteristic of wax
Odor Threshold	Not determined
pH	Not applicable
Melting Point	Approximately 50-70oC
Boiling Point	Not determined
Flash Point	Not determined
Evaporation Rate	Not applicable
Flammability (solid, gas)	Not classified
Upper/Lower Flammability or Explosive Limits	Not classified
Vapor Pressure	Not applicable
Vapor Density	Not applicable
Density @ 20 °C (g/mL)	Not determined
Solubility	Water dispersible
Partition Coefficient (n-octanol/water)	Not applicable
Auto-Ignition Temperature	Not determined
Decomposition Temperature	Not determined
Viscosity @ 100°C	Not determined

10. Stability and Reactivity

Reactivity:	This product is not reactive under the conditions listed in Section 7.
Chemical Stability:	This product is stable under the conditions listed in Section 7.
Hazardous Reactions:	No available data
Conditions to avoid:	Oxidizing agents, strong acids, direct sunlight, heat, sparks, static electricity, and open flame.
Incompatibility:	No available data
Decomposition Products:	Irritating gases when overheated; refer to Section 5.

11. Toxicological Information

Acute Toxicity:
Oral Toxicity	Not classified
Dermal Toxicity	Not classified
Inhalation Toxicity	Not classified
Eye Irritation	Not classified
Dermal Irritation	Not classified
Subchronic/Chronic Toxicity:
Dermal Sensitization	Not classified
OSHA	Not hazardous

12. Ecological Information

Persistence and Degradability:	No available data
Bio-Accumulative Potential:	No available data
Mobility:	No available data
Aquatic Toxicity:	No available data

13. Disposal Considerations

Dispose of in accordance with local/national regulations. This product is not a dangerous waste material. Do not pour into drains or waterways.

14. Transportation Information

General Information:	Not classified as Hazardous for Transport
U.S. Department of Transportation (DOT):	Not classified as Hazardous for Transport
International Maritime Organization (IMDG):	Not classified as Hazardous for Transport
IATA Class or Division:	Not regulated by IATA Dangerous Goods Regulation (DGR)
ADR Class:	Not classified

15. Regulatory Information

INCI Name:	Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Component INCI Name:	Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Component CAS Number:	61789-91-1, 37349-34-1, 8006-44-8, 8016-60-2, 11099-07-3, 67762- 27-0, 25383-99-7
Component EINECS Number:	289-964-3, 609-412-0, 232-347-0, 232-409-7, 234-325-6, 267-008-6, 246-929-7

16. Other Information

Preparation Date:	March 21, 2023
Revision Indicator:	Revision 0
Shelf Life:	2 years under proper storage conditions.
National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) Ratings:	This information is intended solely for the use of individuals trained in the NFPA system.
Health	1
Flammability	1
Reactivity	0

Disclaimer: The information and recommendations contained herein are believed to be accurate to the best of our knowledge. We make no warranty of any kind, express or implied,

concerning the safe use of this material in your process or in combination with other

substances.

Revision History

Revision 0 March 21, 2023; New Document

The Importance of GMP in At-Home CosmeticManufacturing

When formulating cosmetics at home, one of the most important concepts to understand and implement is Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). This is what separates a product that is simply “made” from one that is safe, stable, and professionally executed.

GMP is not just for large-scale laboratories—it applies to every single batch you create,

regardless of size. If you are working with water-based products, actives, or even anhydrous

systems that may come into contact with moisture during use, GMP becomes essential.

Why GMP Matters More Than You Think

Improper GMP doesn’t just create messy workspaces—it directly impacts your formulation.

• It can introduce microbial contamination

• It can overwork your preservation system

• It can lead to product failure or reduced shelf life

One of the biggest misconceptions in DIY formulation is assuming that contamination is always visible.

It is not.

A product can look, smell, and feel completely normal while still containing harmful levels of

bacteria, yeast, or mold. By the time contamination becomes visible, the product has already

failed.

This is why GMP is focused on prevention, not detection.

Start with a Clean, Controlled Environment

Your workspace is your first line of defense.

Even in a home lab, you should:

• Work on clean, disinfected surfaces

• Remove clutter before starting

• Keep pets and food out of the area

• Tie your hair back and practice proper hand hygiene

Every surface and tool that comes into contact with your product should be treated as a

potential contamination point.

Why 70% Isopropyl Alcohol is More Effective Than 99%

It’s common to assume that 99% isopropyl alcohol is stronger and therefore better, but for

Sanitization, 70% is the gold standard.

Here’s why:

• The added 30% water slows evaporation, allowing for longer contact time

• This improves the alcohol’s ability to penetrate and destroy microbial cell walls

• It effectively denatures proteins and disrupts cellular function

In contrast:

• 99% isopropyl alcohol evaporates too quickly

• It may not remain on the surface long enough to properly disinfect

• It can dehydrate microorganisms without fully destroying them

How to Use It Properly

70% isopropyl alcohol should be used to:

• Sanitize work surfaces

• Wipe down equipment after washing

• Clean tools, scales, and mixing vessels

• Sanitize packaging (when appropriate)

Always allow it to air dry completely—this is part of the sanitization process.

Proper Cleaning: The Step You Cannot Skip

Sanitizing is not effective if the surface is not properly cleaned first.

Step 1: Wash with Hot, Soapy Water

This removes:

• Oils and butters

• Residual raw materials

• Dust and debris

• Microbial buildup (including biofilms)

Hot water helps melt lipids and improves the effectiveness of your detergent. Without this step, alcohol cannot properly contact the surface underneath the residue.

Step 2: Rinse with Distilled Water

This is a critical but often overlooked step.

Tap water can contain:

• Minerals (calcium, magnesium)

• Trace contaminants

• Microorganisms

If you rinse with tap water and let it dry, you can reintroduce impurities back onto your

equipment.

Using distilled water ensures a clean, residue-free surface before sanitization.

The Full Cleaning & Sanitizing Process

1. Wash with hot, soapy water

2. Rinse thoroughly

3. Final rinse with distilled water

4. Allow to dry (air dry or lint-free cloth)

5. Sanitize with 70% isopropyl alcohol

6. Allow to air dry completely

This ensures both physical and microbial cleanliness.

Packaging: One of the Most Overlooked GMP Failures

Packaging can make or break your product—even if your formula is perfect.

Ideally, your packaging should arrive sanitized from your supplier and ready for

immediate filling. This is the standard you should expect when sourcing cosmetic packaging.

If your packaging:

• Arrives dusty

• Has visible debris

• Does not appear clean or protected

...it may be worth re-evaluating your supplier. Contact them immediately to initiate a return.

When You Must Sanitize Packaging at Home

If you have no other option, be extremely cautious.

• Only sanitize open-neck jars

• These are easier to access and properly clean

  
  

Avoid attempting to sanitize:

• Pumps

• Sprayers

• Airless systems

• Bottles with narrow openings

These types of packaging have crevices and internal components that are difficult to clean

and dry properly. Incorrect sanitization can actually introduce more microbes, not remove

them.

Preservation Systems Are Not a Safety Net for Poor GMP

Preservatives are designed to control microbial growth, not compensate for

contamination-heavy manufacturing conditions.

If your GMP is poor:

• You introduce a higher microbial load into the product

• Your preservative system becomes overworked

• This can lead to:

○ Shortened shelf life

○ Reduced preservative effectiveness

○ Complete product failure

Even a well-formulated, broad-spectrum preservation system has limits.

A Personal Note from Kennece, Your Cosmetic Chemist

When I first started formulating, I was focused on ingredients—what oil to use, what butter felt the best, what actives would give the best results. Over time, and through both education and experience, I realized something very important:

The success of a formulation is just as dependent on how it’s made as what goes into it.

I’ve seen beautiful formulas fail—not because the formulation was wrong, but because the

manufacturing process wasn’t controlled.

GMP is something I take very seriously in my own lab and something I continuously emphasize in my classes, ebooks, and formulations. Not to overwhelm you—but to protect you, your products, and anyone using them.

You don’t need a commercial lab to do this right. You just need to be intentional, consistent,

and disciplined in your process.

Because at the end of the day, we’re not just making products—we’re creating something

people trust to put on their skin. And that trust starts long before the product is finished.

Why DIY Formulators Should Avoid Using Herbal Teas inCosmetic Formulations

There’s something undeniably appealing about herbal teas in skincare. Chamomile, lavender, calendula—these ingredients feel gentle, natural, and nurturing. Many DIY formulators are drawn to the idea of brewing a tea and incorporating it directly into lotions, creams, or toners.

But from a formulation and safety standpoint, herbal teas are one of the most problematic ingredients you can introduce into a water-based cosmetic product.

Let’s break down exactly why.

1. Herbal Teas Are a Microbial Playground

When you brew a tea, you are essentially creating a nutrient-rich aqueous environment. This is exactly what bacteria, yeast, and mold thrive in.

Herbal teas contain:

• Plant sugars

• Proteins

• Trace minerals

• Organic compounds

These components feed microorganisms, making contamination not just possible—but highly likely.

Even if your tea looks clean:

Microbial growth can begin within hours

Many contaminants are invisible in early stages

You cannot rely on smell or appearance to assess safety

This is especially critical for leave-on products, where contamination can lead to skin irritation, infection, or product spoilage.

2. They Can Overwork (and Even Break) Your Preservative System

A properly designed cosmetic formulation includes a broad-spectrum preservative system

that is carefully selected based on:

• Water activity

• pH

• Ingredient compatibility

• Microbial load

When you add herbal tea, you are introducing:

An unknown microbial load

Organic matter that preservatives must neutralize

Electrolytes and plant compounds that can interfere with preservative efficacy

What does this mean in practice?

Your preservative now has to:

Work harder to control contamination

Compete with organic material that may bind or deactivate it

Handle a higher risk of microbial bloom

This can lead to:

Reduced shelf life

Preservation failure

Hidden contamination despite using a preservative

👉 In short: You are pushing your preservative system beyond what it was designed to

handle.

3. Lack of Standardization = Unpredictable Formulations

Every time you brew a tea, it is different.

Variables include:

Steeping time

Temperature

Herb quality and age

Plant concentration

Water quality

This creates zero consistency, which is a major issue in formulation.

From a cosmetic chemistry perspective:

You cannot accurately calculate your formula

You cannot predict stability

You cannot reproduce results

👉 This goes against one of the most important principles of formulation: repeatability and

control.

4. Stability Issues Beyond Microbes

Herbal teas don’t just introduce microbes—they can also destabilize your formula.

Common issues include:

pH drift (plant materials can shift pH over time)

Color changes (oxidation of plant compounds)

Odor changes (degradation of organic material)

Emulsion instability due to electrolytes

Over time, your product may:

Separate

Thin out

Change color

Develop off odors

👉 These are all signs of an unstable and potentially unsafe product.

5. Cosmetic Extracts Are the Superior Choice

If you want the benefits of botanicals, there is a professional and safe way to do it: use

cosmetic-grade extracts.

Cosmetic extracts are:

Standardized for consistency

Preserved or low in microbial risk

Designed for formulation compatibility

Available in various bases (glycerin, water, propanediol, oil-soluble)

Why they’re better:

You know exactly what you’re adding

They are easier to preserve

They are tested for stability

They integrate cleanly into formulations

👉 This allows you to create safe, stable, and reproducible products, which is the goal of

any serious formulator.

6. Where Herbal Teas Do Belong

Herbal teas are not completely off-limits—they just need to be used appropriately.

They are great for:

• Bath soaks

• Bath teas

• Foot soaks

Why this works:

The product is used immediately

It is not stored as a preserved system

There is no long-term microbial risk

Using a tea sachet keeps plant material contained and prevents mess while still delivering a

beautiful user experience.

👉 This is where herbal teas shine—not in preserved, water-based cosmetics.

Final Thoughts

As a formulator, your responsibility goes beyond creating something that looks or feels

good—you are creating products that must be safe, stable, and reliable over time.

Herbal teas:

• Introduce unpredictable microbial contamination

• Overload preservative systems

• Create instability and inconsistency

While they may feel “natural,” they are not formulation-friendly ingredients for water-based

products.

Instead:

✔ Use cosmetic-grade botanical extracts

✔ Build formulations with controlled, tested inputs

✔ Reserve herbal teas for rinse-off, immediate-use products like bath soaks

Bottom Line

Just because something is natural doesn’t mean it belongs in a formulation.

Professional formulation is about control—and herbal teas take that control away.

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