When you start formulating cosmetics, one of the most important concepts you’ll come across is the Safety Usage Rate (SUR) . At first, it may sound like just another technical term, but understanding it is critical to creating safe, effective, and compliant products. Let’s break down what safety usage rates are, why they matter, and how they protect both you and the people using your products. What Are Safety Usage Rates? A Safety Usage Rate is the maximum percentage of an i

In today’s beauty industry, there is a growing demand for " natural ," " organic, " and " naturally derived " cosmetic products. However, this trend often arises from misconceptions and fear-driven narratives common in online discussions. The focus on naturalness typically revolves around the ingredients used in formulations, but it’s essential to understand the precise meanings of these terms. Additionally, it’s important to recognize that natural does not always mean better

When creating natural products, it's common to add fragrance using essential oils. While this approach is widely accepted, especially under COSMOS certification standards, it does have its challenges. Essential oils, though natural, come with high irritancy and allergen risks. Fortunately, there are alternative ways to naturally scent products while maintaining their "natural" status. Here are two effective options: 1. Hydrosols Hydrosols, also known as distillates, floral w

When first starting to make DIY cosmetics, many new formulators look for existing formulations online to follow. While this approach provides a useful starting point, it also introduces a significant challenge: ingredient availability. The process of purchasing beginner equipment and ingredients can be costly, so it’s not uncommon for new formulators to seek ingredient substitutions to avoid additional expenses. However, it’s crucial to understand that any substitution will a

Grainy body butters can be a frustrating experience, especially when your goal is to create a smooth, luscious whipped butter that glides effortlessly onto the skin. If you’ve encountered this issue, know that you’re not alone—it’s a common challenge for both beginner and experienced formulators. In this detailed post, I’ll explain why body butters can turn grainy and, more importantly, how to avoid it to ensure your final product is silky smooth every time. Understanding the

One common misconception among beginner formulators is that adding more carrier oils and butters will create a lotion that’s ultra-hydrating. While oils and butters play a role in moisturizing the skin, overloading a lotion with these ingredients often results in a greasy, heavy product that sits on the skin’s surface without fully absorbing. Fortunately, you can create a hydrating lotion with a low lipid content (10-15%) by choosing the right ingredients and focusing on the

When it comes to cosmetic formulation, one of the most crucial steps in achieving a stable and well-blended product is the mixing process . While the choice of ingredients, emulsifiers, and preservatives is important, how you mix your formulation can make or break the final product. In cosmetic chemistry, we often refer to two types of mixing methods: high shear  and low shear . Understanding the difference between these techniques, and knowing when to apply them, is critical

When it comes to creating high-quality cosmetics, one of the most critical yet often overlooked aspects is temperature control. Whether you're formulating a simple lotion, a luxurious cream, or an advanced serum, maintaining the correct temperature throughout the formulation process is key to achieving the desired product stability, texture, and efficacy. Let’s explore why temperature is so important in cosmetic formulation, how ingredients react to different temperatures, an

Anhydrous Products in Cosmetic Formulation In the world of at home (DIY) cosmetic formulation, one category of products that stands out is anhydrous products . These are formulations that contain no water. Instead, they are made entirely from oils, butters, waxes, and sometimes other oil-soluble ingredients like esters and powders. Anhydrous products are immensely popular for their ability to soften, protect, and nourish the skin. However, it’s essential to understand both th

Understanding Ingredient Safety Usage Rates in Cosmetic Formulation If you’re just beginning your journey into cosmetic formulation, you’ll often come across the term “Ingredient Safety Usage Rate.”  But what does it mean, and why is it so important to understand? What Is a Safety Usage Rate? The Safety Usage Rate  of an ingredient refers to the maximum amount of a raw material—whether natural or synthetic—that can be used safely in a cosmetic formulation. These limits are ba

Preservation is a critical aspect of cosmetic formulation, ensuring product safety and longevity. Understanding when and how to use preservatives is essential for formulators to create safe, effective products. In this post, we'll explore the importance of preservatives in formulations, the difference between preservatives and antioxidants, common microbial contaminants, and best practices for preserving both water-containing and anhydrous products. Why Use Preservatives? Any

Thickening lotions is an essential part of cosmetic formulation that not only affects the product's texture but also its stability and application. Achieving the right viscosity ensures a pleasant user experience and enhances the efficacy of your formulation. In this post, we will delve into various thickening agents, including cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and rheology modifiers, while highlighting some common misconceptions about using hard butters. Understanding the Rol

When embarking on your journey into cosmetic formulation, one of the most common questions is: Where should I start?  I always recommend beginning with anhydrous products—formulations that do not contain a water component. Anhydrous products are not only simpler but are also safer to make for beginners. These products consist of oils, butters, waxes, and other lipid-based ingredients, all of which do not support the growth of bacteria, yeast, or mold. This eliminates the need

In the world of natural beauty and DIY cosmetic formulation, essential oils are often considered the holy grail of ingredients. They are natural substances obtained through various physical and natural processing methods, such as expression, distillation, and extraction. However, the widespread use of essential oils in formulation is fraught with misconceptions, especially for new formulators who are eager to make products free from synthetic chemicals. As a formulator, under

In response to yesterday's question- " Hi, Kennece, apparently with "natural" emulsifiers there is no longer a need to calculate HLB value, like in the past. Provided the correct type of emulsifier is used, example O/W or W/O. Do you agree because if it is still relevant then it's important. I don't want to overlook it? To help me understand further, if a few oils are used, what happens to the HLB value then? Thank you for this deeper dive into Cetyl Alcohol. The short answer

Hey Patreon, this month we are diving into some more formulating fun, covering Cetyl Alcohol  (and Cetearyl Alcohol , but I’ll cover that in the next post). I wanted to take the time to talk about Cetyl Alcohol  and its capabilities. What is Cetyl Alcohol? Despite the name, Cetyl Alcohol  is not the drying, irritating alcohol you might be thinking of, like ethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Instead, it’s a fatty alcohol , derived from vegetable oils or coconut oil, that plays a ve

Hello Everyone, I've put together a shopping list of essential ingredients that you'll find in many of my formulations. This list covers the basics you'll need, along with a few splurge-worthy materials if they fit within your budget. Consider this post your foundational guide—I’ll be updating it every couple of months with new ingredient recommendations for upcoming units as they’re released. Basic Must-Haves Liquid Germall Plus A broad-spectrum preservative is a non-negotia

A wonderful Patreon member asked the difference between Glyceryl Stearate and GLyceryl Monostearate. I wanted to give as much information as possible, so I wrote a long-form post for everyone! Glyceryl Stearate  and Glyceryl Monostearate  are both emulsifiers commonly used in cosmetic formulations, but they differ in their composition, functionality, and application. Here's a detailed explanation of the differences: Glyceryl Stearate Composition : Glyceryl Stearate is a mixtu

Fractionated Coconut Oil (FCO)  and Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (CCT)  are often confused or used interchangeably in the marketplace, but they are not exactly the same. Here's a detailed explanation of the differences: Fractionated Coconut Oil (FCO) Composition : Fractionated coconut oil is derived from regular coconut oil through a process called fractionation. This process involves removing the long-chain fatty acids (such as lauric acid, C12) from the oil, leaving behind

Let's talk about one of my all-time favorite ingredients: cocoa butter! I absolutely adore the rich, natural aroma of raw cocoa butter and the way it enhances some of my most cherished formulations. However, I've always had a bit of a challenge with fragrances—working with them often leaves me with migraines. That's why you’ll find that many of my facial products are fragrance-free. For those of us who love the scent of raw cocoa, it's a treat, but I know that not everyone fe

Hey, Just a quick update today—I’m in full busy bee mode, recording new videos and typing up fresh formulas for everyone to enjoy! 🐝 I wanted to share a list of affordable beginner must-have equipment to help you follow along with the new formulas I'll be uploading soon. I’m also including one splurge piece of equipment for those looking to invest a little more into their formulation journey. None of the links I’m sharing are affiliated. While I might consider that option in

Sanitizing lab equipment and workspaces is crucial for maintaining the integrity of cosmetic formulations and ensuring product safety. One of the most commonly used sanitizers in cosmetic labs is isopropyl alcohol (IPA). However, there is often confusion about whether 70% or 99% IPA is more effective for this purpose. This blog post explores why 70% isopropyl alcohol is typically the better choice for sanitizing in a cosmetic lab setting. Understanding Isopropyl Alcohol Isopr