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Blogs
Learn, explore, and grow as a formulator.
Whether you’re starting out or refining your craft, discover insights and creativity with the support of a certified cosmetic chemist.


Sunscreen + Zinc Oxides
The growth of handmade beauty has sparked amazing curiosity and innovation. Watching people explore ingredients, ask questions, and build confidence in formulation is one of my favorite parts of this industry. But there is one area where excitement has to pause and serious caution needs to step in. Sun protection. I see creators online sharing recipes for “natural,” “chemical-free,” or “non-toxic” UV products almost daily. And I’ll be honest — every time I come across one, it


Understanding Safety Usage Rates in Cosmetic Formulation
When you start formulating cosmetics, one of the most important concepts you’ll come across is the Safety Usage Rate (SUR) . At first, it may sound like just another technical term, but understanding it is critical to creating safe, effective, and compliant products. Let’s break down what safety usage rates are, why they matter, and how they protect both you and the people using your products. What Are Safety Usage Rates? A Safety Usage Rate is the maximum percentage of an i


Do Cosmetics Really Enter the Bloodstream?
The Truth About Skin Absorption: Do Cosmetics Really Enter the Bloodstream? If you’ve spent any time online, you’ve probably seen claims that “everything you put on your skin goes straight into your bloodstream.” It sounds alarming—but it’s not accurate. The science of skin absorption is much more complex, and cosmetics are designed to work on the skin’s surface, not bypass its defenses. Let’s separate fact from fiction. The Skin Barrier: Nature’s Shield The skin is our first


Apple Crisp No Heat Body Butter
Phase % w/w Trade Name/ INCI Name Supplier CAS Number A 60% Refined Shea Butter Natural Bulk Supplies A 10% Aloe Butter Natural Bulk Supplies A 3.5% Sunflower Oil Natural Bulk Supplies A 20% Fractionated Coconut Oil (MCT Oil) Natural Bulk Supplies A 1% Jojoba Oil Natural Bulk Supplies A 4.5% Arrowroot Powder (Refer to Notes) Bulk Barn A 0.5% Vitamin E MT50 Natural Bulk Supplies A 0.5% Apple Crisp Fragrance Oil Fizzy Fairy q.s pH Buffer pH Adjuster N/A 100% Total METHOD 1.We


Working with Optiphen Plus
Optiphen Plus is a widely used preservative system in cosmetic formulation, especially popular among DIYers and small-scale formulators. While it is not COSMOS-approved , it is still globally accepted because it is paraben-free and formaldehyde-free , making it an appealing option for those looking for a broad-spectrum preservative. The key reason it is not COSMOS-approved comes down to phenoxyethanol , which makes up about 52% of the blend. Still, Optiphen Plus remains one


Simple 4 Ingredient Body Oil
Let's Make A Simple DIY Body Oil Let's Make a 4 Ingredient DIY Natural Body Oil 🥰 98% Sunflower Oil 1% Blueberry Oil 0.5% Fragrance of your choice 0.5% Vitamin E MT50 Instructions: 1) Weigh, Mix, Bottle + Enjoy! It's really that simple.


What Is Slip???
WHAT IS SLIP IN COSMETIC CHEMISTRY??? What is "Slip" in Cosmetic Chemistry? In cosmetic formulation, “slip” refers to the perceived smoothness and glide of a product as it spreads across the skin or hair. It's a critical sensory attribute, especially in emulsions like lotions, creams, and conditioners. A product with good slip moves effortlessly over the surface during application, giving a luxurious, silky, or elegant feel. The Science Behind Slip: Slip is determined by the


Understanding Ingredient Origins Part 1: (Natural Cosmetic Formulation Series )
In today’s beauty industry, there is a growing demand for " natural ," " organic, " and " naturally derived " cosmetic products. However, this trend often arises from misconceptions and fear-driven narratives common in online discussions. The focus on naturalness typically revolves around the ingredients used in formulations, but it’s essential to understand the precise meanings of these terms. Additionally, it’s important to recognize that natural does not always mean better


Naturally Scenting Emulsions Without Essential Oils
When creating natural products, it's common to add fragrance using essential oils. While this approach is widely accepted, especially under COSMOS certification standards, it does have its challenges. Essential oils, though natural, come with high irritancy and allergen risks. Fortunately, there are alternative ways to naturally scent products while maintaining their "natural" status. Here are two effective options: 1. Hydrosols Hydrosols, also known as distillates, floral w


How to Avoid Grainy Body Butters: A Comprehensive Guide
Grainy body butters can be a frustrating experience, especially when your goal is to create a smooth, luscious whipped butter that glides effortlessly onto the skin. If you’ve encountered this issue, know that you’re not alone—it’s a common challenge for both beginner and experienced formulators. In this detailed post, I’ll explain why body butters can turn grainy and, more importantly, how to avoid it to ensure your final product is silky smooth every time. Understanding the


Sunscreens In A Bit More Depth E-book
I posted this in the VIP Facebook group, back in June, before I started Patreon. A member asked me earlier this week about making sunscreen. Read more here: https://www.patreon.com/posts/sunscreens-in-110485876


Full Product Development CONTEST
THE WINNER OF THE FULL PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT IS @Charity A. Jones. Prize Includes: Everything from start to finish! From determining your target market, ingredient selection, custom product development exclusive to your brand, basic lab stability testing, sample sent out for approval, chosing proper packaging, correct information for the label, product photography to start marketing your dream product.


Certified Organic Ingredients
Organic ingredients have created quite the buzz in the cosmetic industry. Customers now more than ever want to know what they are putting on their skin, in turn creating a demand for certified organic ingredients. "Natural" and "Organic" are loosly used by many skincare companies as marketing for these in demand ingredients. So what makes an ingredient Certified Organic? How can we ensure full transparency to our customers to make sure that our certified organic prducts


PH in Cosmetics
The PH scale is from 0-14 0 being the most acidic and 14 being the most alkaline. Ph is dependant on the concentration of Hydrogen (H+) or Hydronium Ions (H3O+) Skin has a PH of around 5.5. Most personal care products fall in the range of 5.3 - 5.8 and rarely up to 7 (neutral) EXCEPTIONS do apply and we will get into some of them later on and also learn to make PH buffer solutions! Rarely is a formula made and finished at just the right temperature, this leave us to adjust


Consumer Perceptions
They way the customer perceives a product can play an important role in how we formulate a product. Customer perceptions are often far off from what we know as formulators to be true, however without customers we would have no one to make our wonderful products for. When a consumer reads a label they are all to often confused and overwhelmed. Not being able to understand what the ingredients are (as they are in INCI format) they often deem products unsafe or filled with "f


Upscaling A Cosmetic Formula
Now that we have learned how to read and weigh out a cosmetic formula, it's time to learn how to upscale for bigger batches (We need a lot more than 100g of our cosmetic goodness!). We will use the formula provided yesterday to keep things simple. WHEN MAKING A NEW FORMULA ALWAYS START WITH A 100G BATCH ( you would hate to make say a 500g batch and have accidently misread the steps or something else. It would be an expensive mistake wasting ingredients) The formula read : B


Reading a Cosmetic Formula
Learn to read a cosmeti c formulation accurately! #diyskincare #cosmeticformulating #naturalcosmetics #stablecosmetics
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