By Kennece ShakiAvon YOUR COSMETIC CHEMIST When I first started formulating, I was honestly overwhelmed by emulsifiers. Every supplier seemed to recommend something different, ingredient forums contradicted one another, and social media made it feel like certain emulsifiers were “good” while others were somehow “bad.” The truth is much more scientific than that. An emulsifier is simply a tool. Different emulsifiers create different textures, different aesthetics, and differen

When formulating cosmetics at home, one of the most important concepts to understand and implement is Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). This is what separates a product that is simply “made” from one that is safe, stable, and professionally executed. GMP is not just for large-scale laboratories—it applies to every single batch you create, regardless of size. If you are working with water-based products, actives, or even anhydrous systems that may come into contact with mois

There’s something undeniably appealing about herbal teas in skincare. Chamomile, lavender, calendula—these ingredients feel gentle, natural, and nurturing. Many DIY formulators are drawn to the idea of brewing a tea and incorporating it directly into lotions, creams, or toners. But from a formulation and safety standpoint, herbal teas are one of the most problematic ingredients you can introduce into a water-based cosmetic product. Let’s break down exactly why. 1. Herbal Teas

If there’s one area where formulators—especially beginners—tend to take risks, it’s fragrance usage. Whether working with fragrance oils or essential oils, exceeding recommended limits can turn an otherwise beautiful formulation into a product that is unsafe, irritating, or even non-compliant for sale. This is where the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) comes in. Understanding and following IFRA usage rates is not optional—it is a "critical part of safe, professional

A Real Talk from Your Cosmetic Chemist If you’ve been in my community for any length of time, you already know this: I love safe, well-formulated products. I love transparency. I love ingredient literacy. And I love empowering you with real science. But there is one trend that continues to grow louder every year — the idea of “non-toxic” and “chemical-free” cosmetics. Let’s talk about it honestly. Because the truth is... the phrase “chemical-free” doesn’t mean what people thi

What I Wish I Understood Sooner as a Formulator? When I first started formulating, I automatically assumed unrefined meant superior. Raw. Pure. Straight from nature. It felt like the better choice. But as I deepened my studies in cosmetic chemistry and began developing products for clients, I realized something important: Refined and unrefined ingredients are tools — and each tool has a purpose. Let’s break this down properly. What Does “Unrefined” Actually Mean? Unrefined oi

The growth of handmade beauty has sparked amazing curiosity and innovation. Watching people explore ingredients, ask questions, and build confidence in formulation is one of my favorite parts of this industry. But there is one area where excitement has to pause and serious caution needs to step in. Sun protection. I see creators online sharing recipes for “natural,” “chemical-free,” or “non-toxic” UV products almost daily. And I’ll be honest — every time I come across one, it

The EU Silicone Ban: What It Means for Formulators Starting June 6, 2027 , the European Union will enforce new restrictions under the REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and Restriction of Chemicals) regulation, targeting specific cyclic silicones used in cosmetics. What’s Changing? The updated regulation limits the use of the following silicones to a maximum concentration of 0.1% in both rinse-off and leave-on cosmetic products sold within the EU: Octamethylcy

When you start formulating cosmetics, one of the most important concepts you’ll come across is the Safety Usage Rate (SUR) . At first, it may sound like just another technical term, but understanding it is critical to creating safe, effective, and compliant products. Let’s break down what safety usage rates are, why they matter, and how they protect both you and the people using your products. What Are Safety Usage Rates? A Safety Usage Rate is the maximum percentage of an i

The Truth About Skin Absorption: Do Cosmetics Really Enter the Bloodstream? If you’ve spent any time online, you’ve probably seen claims that “everything you put on your skin goes straight into your bloodstream.” It sounds alarming—but it’s not accurate. The science of skin absorption is much more complex, and cosmetics are designed to work on the skin’s surface, not bypass its defenses. Let’s separate fact from fiction. The Skin Barrier: Nature’s Shield The skin is our first

Phase % w/w Trade Name/ INCI Name Supplier CAS Number A 60% Refined Shea Butter Natural Bulk Supplies A 10% Aloe Butter Natural Bulk Supplies A 3.5% Sunflower Oil Natural Bulk Supplies A 20% Fractionated Coconut Oil (MCT Oil) Natural Bulk Supplies A 1% Jojoba Oil Natural Bulk Supplies A 4.5% Arrowroot Powder (Refer to Notes) Bulk Barn A 0.5% Vitamin E MT50 Natural Bulk Supplies A 0.5% Apple Crisp Fragrance Oil Fizzy Fairy q.s pH Buffer pH Adjuster N/A 100% Total METHOD 1.We

Optiphen Plus is a widely used preservative system in cosmetic formulation, especially popular among DIYers and small-scale formulators. While it is not COSMOS-approved , it is still globally accepted because it is paraben-free and formaldehyde-free , making it an appealing option for those looking for a broad-spectrum preservative. The key reason it is not COSMOS-approved comes down to phenoxyethanol , which makes up about 52% of the blend. Still, Optiphen Plus remains one

Let's Make A Simple DIY Body Oil Let's Make a 4 Ingredient DIY Natural Body Oil 🥰 98% Sunflower Oil 1% Blueberry Oil 0.5% Fragrance of your choice 0.5% Vitamin E MT50 Instructions: 1) Weigh, Mix, Bottle + Enjoy! It's really that simple.

WHAT IS SLIP IN COSMETIC CHEMISTRY??? What is "Slip" in Cosmetic Chemistry? In cosmetic formulation, “slip” refers to the perceived smoothness and glide of a product as it spreads across the skin or hair. It's a critical sensory attribute, especially in emulsions like lotions, creams, and conditioners. A product with good slip moves effortlessly over the surface during application, giving a luxurious, silky, or elegant feel. The Science Behind Slip: Slip is determined by the

Phase %w/w Trade Name/ INCI Name Supplier CAS Number A 4% Refined Shea Butter Natural Bulk Supplies A 2% Apricot Kernel Oil Natural Bulk Supplies A 5% Rice Bran Oil Natural Bulk Supplies A 5% Avocado Oil Natural Bulk Supplies A 8% Emulsifying Wax NF Natural Bulk Supplies A 2% Cetyl Alcohol Ez Elements or Natural Bulk Supplies A 0.5% Stearic Acid Ez Elements or Natural Bulk Supplies B 61.8% Distilled Water B 0.5% Allantoin Powder Natural Bulk Supplies B 0.5% Panthenol Powder N

Phase %w/w Trade Name/ INCI Name Supplier CAS Number A 55% Refined Shea Butter Natural Bulk Supplies or New Directions Aromatic A 40% Fractionated Coconut Oil Natural Bulk Supplies or New Directions Aromatic A 4% Arrowroot Powder B 0.5% Vitamin E MT50 Tocopherols Natural Bulk Supplies or New Directions Aromatic B 0.5% Fragrance (optional) q.s pH Buffer pH Adjuster N/A 100% Total METHOD 1.Weigh PHASE A in a heat proof stainless steel bowl. 2. Heat PHASE A until fully melted, s

This simple-to-make Hyaluronic Acid serum is perfect for beginners and seasoned formulators alike. If you’re new to creating a High Molecular Weight (HMW) Hyaluronic Acid solution, be sure to check out our YouTube tutorial for a step-by-step guide. This formulation combines two powerful humectants for enhanced hydration, two aromatic hydrosols for a naturally light fragrance, and green tea extract to add an appealing marketing edge. Happy Formulating! Link For HMW YouTube Vid

In today’s beauty industry, there is a growing demand for " natural ," " organic, " and " naturally derived " cosmetic products. However, this trend often arises from misconceptions and fear-driven narratives common in online discussions. The focus on naturalness typically revolves around the ingredients used in formulations, but it’s essential to understand the precise meanings of these terms. Additionally, it’s important to recognize that natural does not always mean better

When creating natural products, it's common to add fragrance using essential oils. While this approach is widely accepted, especially under COSMOS certification standards, it does have its challenges. Essential oils, though natural, come with high irritancy and allergen risks. Fortunately, there are alternative ways to naturally scent products while maintaining their "natural" status. Here are two effective options: 1. Hydrosols Hydrosols, also known as distillates, floral w

When first starting to make DIY cosmetics, many new formulators look for existing formulations online to follow. While this approach provides a useful starting point, it also introduces a significant challenge: ingredient availability. The process of purchasing beginner equipment and ingredients can be costly, so it’s not uncommon for new formulators to seek ingredient substitutions to avoid additional expenses. However, it’s crucial to understand that any substitution will a

Grainy body butters can be a frustrating experience, especially when your goal is to create a smooth, luscious whipped butter that glides effortlessly onto the skin. If you’ve encountered this issue, know that you’re not alone—it’s a common challenge for both beginner and experienced formulators. In this detailed post, I’ll explain why body butters can turn grainy and, more importantly, how to avoid it to ensure your final product is silky smooth every time. Understanding the

Foaming, bubbly products are a favorite for many of us! When starting out as a cosmetic formulator, it’s common to want to make everything at once—especially those fun foaming products like body washes or shampoos. However, creating foaming products is far from simple to get it right, you need a solid understanding of surfactant charges and how to balance cleansing with skin-moisturizing ingredients. One common misconception for beginners is that Castile Soap can be used to f

One common misconception among beginner formulators is that adding more carrier oils and butters will create a lotion that’s ultra-hydrating. While oils and butters play a role in moisturizing the skin, overloading a lotion with these ingredients often results in a greasy, heavy product that sits on the skin’s surface without fully absorbing. Fortunately, you can create a hydrating lotion with a low lipid content (10-15%) by choosing the right ingredients and focusing on the