When creating natural products, it's common to add fragrance using essential oils. While this approach is widely accepted, especially under COSMOS certification standards, it does have its challenges. Essential oils, though natural, come with high irritancy and allergen risks. Fortunately, there are alternative ways to naturally scent products while maintaining their "natural" status. Here are two effective options: 1. Hydrosols Hydrosols, also known as distillates, floral w

When first starting to make DIY cosmetics, many new formulators look for existing formulations online to follow. While this approach provides a useful starting point, it also introduces a significant challenge: ingredient availability. The process of purchasing beginner equipment and ingredients can be costly, so it’s not uncommon for new formulators to seek ingredient substitutions to avoid additional expenses. However, it’s crucial to understand that any substitution will a

Grainy body butters can be a frustrating experience, especially when your goal is to create a smooth, luscious whipped butter that glides effortlessly onto the skin. If you’ve encountered this issue, know that you’re not alone—it’s a common challenge for both beginner and experienced formulators. In this detailed post, I’ll explain why body butters can turn grainy and, more importantly, how to avoid it to ensure your final product is silky smooth every time. Understanding the

Foaming, bubbly products are a favorite for many of us! When starting out as a cosmetic formulator, it’s common to want to make everything at once—especially those fun foaming products like body washes or shampoos. However, creating foaming products is far from simple to get it right, you need a solid understanding of surfactant charges and how to balance cleansing with skin-moisturizing ingredients. One common misconception for beginners is that Castile Soap can be used to f

One common misconception among beginner formulators is that adding more carrier oils and butters will create a lotion that’s ultra-hydrating. While oils and butters play a role in moisturizing the skin, overloading a lotion with these ingredients often results in a greasy, heavy product that sits on the skin’s surface without fully absorbing. Fortunately, you can create a hydrating lotion with a low lipid content (10-15%) by choosing the right ingredients and focusing on the

When it comes to cosmetic formulation, one of the most crucial steps in achieving a stable and well-blended product is the mixing process . While the choice of ingredients, emulsifiers, and preservatives is important, how you mix your formulation can make or break the final product. In cosmetic chemistry, we often refer to two types of mixing methods: high shear  and low shear . Understanding the difference between these techniques, and knowing when to apply them, is critical

When it comes to creating high-quality cosmetics, one of the most critical yet often overlooked aspects is temperature control. Whether you're formulating a simple lotion, a luxurious cream, or an advanced serum, maintaining the correct temperature throughout the formulation process is key to achieving the desired product stability, texture, and efficacy. Let’s explore why temperature is so important in cosmetic formulation, how ingredients react to different temperatures, an

When starting to make your own skincare products, it’s easy to get caught up in the desire to use natural and safe ingredients. If I had to estimate, I’d say that upwards of 99% of people—myself included—begin this journey because they’ve lost trust in mass-produced products or have come across alarming information about ingredients online. Unfortunately, there’s a lot of misinformation out there, and many of us start formulating with a skewed understanding of what’s safe an

Anhydrous Products in Cosmetic Formulation In the world of at home (DIY) cosmetic formulation, one category of products that stands out is anhydrous products . These are formulations that contain no water. Instead, they are made entirely from oils, butters, waxes, and sometimes other oil-soluble ingredients like esters and powders. Anhydrous products are immensely popular for their ability to soften, protect, and nourish the skin. However, it’s essential to understand both th

Understanding Ingredient Safety Usage Rates in Cosmetic Formulation If you’re just beginning your journey into cosmetic formulation, you’ll often come across the term “Ingredient Safety Usage Rate.”  But what does it mean, and why is it so important to understand? What Is a Safety Usage Rate? The Safety Usage Rate  of an ingredient refers to the maximum amount of a raw material—whether natural or synthetic—that can be used safely in a cosmetic formulation. These limits are ba

I posted this in the VIP Facebook group, back in June, before I started Patreon. A member asked me earlier this week about making sunscreen. Read more here: https://www.patreon.com/posts/sunscreens-in-110485876

Preservation is a critical aspect of cosmetic formulation, ensuring product safety and longevity. Understanding when and how to use preservatives is essential for formulators to create safe, effective products. In this post, we'll explore the importance of preservatives in formulations, the difference between preservatives and antioxidants, common microbial contaminants, and best practices for preserving both water-containing and anhydrous products. Why Use Preservatives? Any

Thickening lotions is an essential part of cosmetic formulation that not only affects the product's texture but also its stability and application. Achieving the right viscosity ensures a pleasant user experience and enhances the efficacy of your formulation. In this post, we will delve into various thickening agents, including cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, and rheology modifiers, while highlighting some common misconceptions about using hard butters. Understanding the Rol

Anhydrous (water-free) cosmetic products have gained popularity due to their rich, concentrated formulas and long shelf life. These formulations include products like balms, body butters, oils, and ointments, which are widely used in personal care routines. However, while anhydrous products offer many benefits, one common misconception is that they hydrate the skin. In this blog post, we’ll explore why anhydrous products do not hydrate the skin and what their true role in ski

The formula is: Phase % w/w Trade Name/ INCI Name Supplier CAS Number A 40% Shea Butter A 20% Sweet Almond Oil A 20% Canola Oil A 20% Beeswax OPTIONAL: 0.4% Vitamin E MT50 0.3% Lip Balm Flavour of your choice. Note:  If you add the optional ingredients please adjust the Shea Butter portion of the formula. Must cool in the fridge to avoid graininess.

Formula: Phase % w/w Trade Name/ INCI Name Supplier CAS Number A 7% DLS Mild Liquid Surfactant (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) A 10% Decyl Glucoside A 0.8% DLS Mild Liquid Decyl Glucoside Fragrance B 73.7% Distilled Water B 8% Glycerin B 0.5% Liquid Germall Plus METHOD 1. Weigh PHASE A in a plastic beaker and stir thoroughly. 2. Weigh PHASE B in a separate plastic beaker and stir thoroughly. 3. Pour PHASE B in small increments into PHASE, and stir as you pour. 4. Bottle in

When embarking on your journey into cosmetic formulation, one of the most common questions is: Where should I start?  I always recommend beginning with anhydrous products—formulations that do not contain a water component. Anhydrous products are not only simpler but are also safer to make for beginners. These products consist of oils, butters, waxes, and other lipid-based ingredients, all of which do not support the growth of bacteria, yeast, or mold. This eliminates the need