By Kennece ShakiAvon YOUR COSMETIC CHEMIST When I first started formulating, I was honestly overwhelmed by emulsifiers. Every supplier seemed to recommend something different, ingredient forums contradicted one another, and social media made it feel like certain emulsifiers were “good” while others were somehow “bad.” The truth is much more scientific than that. An emulsifier is simply a tool. Different emulsifiers create different textures, different aesthetics, and differen

When formulating cosmetics at home, one of the most important concepts to understand and implement is Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP). This is what separates a product that is simply “made” from one that is safe, stable, and professionally executed. GMP is not just for large-scale laboratories—it applies to every single batch you create, regardless of size. If you are working with water-based products, actives, or even anhydrous systems that may come into contact with mois

There’s something undeniably appealing about herbal teas in skincare. Chamomile, lavender, calendula—these ingredients feel gentle, natural, and nurturing. Many DIY formulators are drawn to the idea of brewing a tea and incorporating it directly into lotions, creams, or toners. But from a formulation and safety standpoint, herbal teas are one of the most problematic ingredients you can introduce into a water-based cosmetic product. Let’s break down exactly why. 1. Herbal Teas

If there’s one area where formulators—especially beginners—tend to take risks, it’s fragrance usage. Whether working with fragrance oils or essential oils, exceeding recommended limits can turn an otherwise beautiful formulation into a product that is unsafe, irritating, or even non-compliant for sale. This is where the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) comes in. Understanding and following IFRA usage rates is not optional—it is a "critical part of safe, professional

A Real Talk from Your Cosmetic Chemist If you’ve been in my community for any length of time, you already know this: I love safe, well-formulated products. I love transparency. I love ingredient literacy. And I love empowering you with real science. But there is one trend that continues to grow louder every year — the idea of “non-toxic” and “chemical-free” cosmetics. Let’s talk about it honestly. Because the truth is... the phrase “chemical-free” doesn’t mean what people thi

What I Wish I Understood Sooner as a Formulator? When I first started formulating, I automatically assumed unrefined meant superior. Raw. Pure. Straight from nature. It felt like the better choice. But as I deepened my studies in cosmetic chemistry and began developing products for clients, I realized something important: Refined and unrefined ingredients are tools — and each tool has a purpose. Let’s break this down properly. What Does “Unrefined” Actually Mean? Unrefined oi

The growth of handmade beauty has sparked amazing curiosity and innovation. Watching people explore ingredients, ask questions, and build confidence in formulation is one of my favorite parts of this industry. But there is one area where excitement has to pause and serious caution needs to step in. Sun protection. I see creators online sharing recipes for “natural,” “chemical-free,” or “non-toxic” UV products almost daily. And I’ll be honest — every time I come across one, it