In the world of natural beauty and DIY cosmetic formulation, essential oils are often considered the holy grail of ingredients. They are natural substances obtained through various physical and natural processing methods, such as expression, distillation, and extraction. However, the widespread use of essential oils in formulation is fraught with misconceptions, especially for new formulators who are eager to make products free from synthetic chemicals. As a formulator, under

In response to yesterday's question- " Hi, Kennece, apparently with "natural" emulsifiers there is no longer a need to calculate HLB value, like in the past. Provided the correct type of emulsifier is used, example O/W or W/O. Do you agree because if it is still relevant then it's important. I don't want to overlook it? To help me understand further, if a few oils are used, what happens to the HLB value then? Thank you for this deeper dive into Cetyl Alcohol. The short answer

Hey Patreon, this month we are diving into some more formulating fun, covering Cetyl Alcohol  (and Cetearyl Alcohol , but I’ll cover that in the next post). I wanted to take the time to talk about Cetyl Alcohol  and its capabilities. What is Cetyl Alcohol? Despite the name, Cetyl Alcohol  is not the drying, irritating alcohol you might be thinking of, like ethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Instead, it’s a fatty alcohol , derived from vegetable oils or coconut oil, that plays a ve

Hello Everyone, I've put together a shopping list of essential ingredients that you'll find in many of my formulations. This list covers the basics you'll need, along with a few splurge-worthy materials if they fit within your budget. Consider this post your foundational guide—I’ll be updating it every couple of months with new ingredient recommendations for upcoming units as they’re released. Basic Must-Haves Liquid Germall Plus A broad-spectrum preservative is a non-negotia

A wonderful Patreon member asked the difference between Glyceryl Stearate and GLyceryl Monostearate. I wanted to give as much information as possible, so I wrote a long-form post for everyone! Glyceryl Stearate  and Glyceryl Monostearate  are both emulsifiers commonly used in cosmetic formulations, but they differ in their composition, functionality, and application. Here's a detailed explanation of the differences: Glyceryl Stearate Composition : Glyceryl Stearate is a mixtu

Fractionated Coconut Oil (FCO)  and Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (CCT)  are often confused or used interchangeably in the marketplace, but they are not exactly the same. Here's a detailed explanation of the differences: Fractionated Coconut Oil (FCO) Composition : Fractionated coconut oil is derived from regular coconut oil through a process called fractionation. This process involves removing the long-chain fatty acids (such as lauric acid, C12) from the oil, leaving behind

Let's talk about one of my all-time favorite ingredients: cocoa butter! I absolutely adore the rich, natural aroma of raw cocoa butter and the way it enhances some of my most cherished formulations. However, I've always had a bit of a challenge with fragrances—working with them often leaves me with migraines. That's why you’ll find that many of my facial products are fragrance-free. For those of us who love the scent of raw cocoa, it's a treat, but I know that not everyone fe

Hey, Just a quick update today—I’m in full busy bee mode, recording new videos and typing up fresh formulas for everyone to enjoy! 🐝 I wanted to share a list of affordable beginner must-have equipment to help you follow along with the new formulas I'll be uploading soon. I’m also including one splurge piece of equipment for those looking to invest a little more into their formulation journey. None of the links I’m sharing are affiliated. While I might consider that option in

Phase % w/w Trade Name/ INCI Name Supplier CAS Number A 5% Sweet Almond Oil New Directions Aromatic A 5% Sunflower Oil New Directions Aromatic A 4%  Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides MCT Formulator Sample Shop A 2% Safflower Oil New Directions Aromatic A 8.5% Emulsifying Wax NF or Polawax Soap + More A 2% Cetyl Alcohol Voyageur Soap + Candle B Up to 100% Distilled Water B 3% Glycerin Voyageur Soap + Candle B 2% Propanediol 1,3 Voyageur Soap + Candle B 0.5% Allantoin Voyageur Soap

Phase % w/w Trade Name/ INCI Name Supplier CAS Number A 5% Refined Shea Butter Windy Point Soap A 2% Sweet Almond Oil New Directions Aromatic A 3% Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides  Formulator Sample Shop A 4% Sunflower Oil New Directions Aromatic A 8% OliveM 1000 Windy Point Soap A 2.5% Ritamulse SCG Voyageur Soap & Candle A 0.5% Beeswax New Directions Aromatic B 62.7% Distilled Water B 3% Aloe Vera Juice New Directions Aromatic B 0.5% Allantoin Windy Point Soap B(2) 5% Glycerin

Phase % w/w Trade Name/ INCI Name Supplier CAS Number A 4% Refined Shea Butter New Directions Aromatic A 3% Mango Butter  New Directions Aromatic A 3% Caprylic/ Capric Triglycerides MCT Formulator Sample Shop A 6% Sunflower Oil New Directions Aromatic A 7.5% Emulsifying Wax NF Soap + More A 3% Cetyl Alcohol Windy Point Soap B 58.6 Distilled Water B 5% Aloe Vera Juice ( Cosmetic Grade) New Directions Aromatic B 2% Glycerin Windy Point Soap B 2% Propanediol 1,3 Windy Point Soap

Sanitizing lab equipment and workspaces is crucial for maintaining the integrity of cosmetic formulations and ensuring product safety. One of the most commonly used sanitizers in cosmetic labs is isopropyl alcohol (IPA). However, there is often confusion about whether 70% or 99% IPA is more effective for this purpose. This blog post explores why 70% isopropyl alcohol is typically the better choice for sanitizing in a cosmetic lab setting. Understanding Isopropyl Alcohol Isopr

INCI Cetyl Alcohol WHAT DOES IT DO AND WHY DO WE USE IT? Cetyl Alcohol is a versatile fatty alcohol used primarily as an emulsion thickener and opacifier. It enhances the viscosity, body, texture, and skin feel of lotions and creams, providing a velvety touch. This ingredient is beneficial for its emollient properties, as it absorbs into the epidermis to soften and lubricate the skin. It’s also used to increase the melting point of anhydrous body butters, scrubs, lotion bars,

Getting Started with Affordable Ingredients: A Guide for New Formulators When you're just starting out in cosmetic formulation, it can be tempting to turn to Amazon for your ingredient purchases. (For more information, please refer to my post titled Buying Ingredients on Amazon.) While this is a common approach, it's essential to understand that there are better options available, particularly through reliable small-scale suppliers. As you browse these suppliers' websites, yo

I strongly advise against ordering ingredients from Amazon, unless they are from a reputable supplier (Making Cosmetics, TKB Trading) that happens to have an Amazon storefront. Reasons: 1) Quality: They are rarely industry quality. In the case of Essential Oils, they are often diluted with carrier oils. This cut costs to make them affordable. In some cases they are also partially EO/FO combos, again to cut cost! Resulting in a low-quality material for you to use in your form

Formulating cosmetics can be a complex process, and even the smallest changes can significantly impact the final product. You may find that a formula works perfectly for someone else but doesn't turn out the same when you try it. Understanding why this happens can save you a lot of frustration and help you achieve better results. Here are three key factors that can influence the outcome of your formulation: 1) Ingredients: Same INCI, Different Results Ingredients listed with