Refined vs. Unrefined Oils & Butters

What I Wish I Understood Sooner as a Formulator?

When I first started formulating, I automatically assumed unrefined meant superior.

Raw. Pure. Straight from nature.

It felt like the better choice.

But as I deepened my studies in cosmetic chemistry and began developing products for clients,

I realized something important:

Refined and unrefined ingredients are tools — and each tool has a purpose.

Let’s break this down properly.

What Does “Unrefined” Actually Mean?

Unrefined oils and butters are minimally processed after extraction.

They typically undergo:

• Mechanical pressing (cold pressing or expeller pressing)

• Filtration to remove solid debris

• No deodorizing

• No bleaching

• No chemical refining steps

They retain more of their natural:

• Color

• Aroma

• Plant sterols

• Unsaponifiables

• Minor phytonutrients

Example: Unrefined Shea Butter

Unrefined Shea Butter:

• Cream to yellow color

• Strong nutty, smoky scent

• Contains natural latex traces

• Rich in unsaponifiables and triterpenes

Beautiful? Yes.

Always practical? No.

What Is “Refined”?

Refined oils and butters go through additional processing steps that may include:

• Degumming

• Neutralization

• Bleaching (using clay filtration, not chlorine)

• Deodorization

• Winterization (for some oils)

This removes:

• Strong scent

• Natural pigments

• Free fatty acids

• Some oxidative components

• Particulate matter

Example: Refined Shea Butter

Refined Shea Butter:

• Bright white

• Odorless

• More uniform texture

• Better suited for fragranced products

The Differences That Actually Matter in Formulation

1. Batch Consistency

Unrefined ingredients vary crop to crop.

• Climate.

• Harvest timing.

• Storage.

• Oxidation level.

  
  

If you are selling products and want identical batches every time, refined materials provide

better reproducibility.

2. Oxidative Stability

Unrefined oils contain more minor plant components. Some of these act as antioxidants — but others can accelerate instability.

Refined oils often have:

• Lower peroxide values

• More stable scent profile

• Reduced discoloration over time

In warm climates, especially, this matters.

3. Fragrance Compatibility

I cannot stress this enough.

If you are creating:

• Perfumed body creams

• Fragrance-forward butters

• Luxury emulsions

Unrefined butters can overpower your scent system and will definitely alter the final fragrance profile of your product.

That rich chocolate note in raw cocoa butter?

It will compete.

Refined oils allow your fragrance composition to remain true.

4. Final Product Appearance

In emulsions, unrefined materials can:

• Darken your product

• Shift color over time

• Cause slight scent drift

Refined materials support:

• Consistent in color emulsions

• Clean aesthetic

• Visual stability

If you are positioning your brand as luxury, aesthetics matter.

When I Personally Choose Unrefined

There are times I absolutely love unrefined materials.

I use them in:

• Rustic body balms

• Earthy anhydrous salves

• Products where the natural scent complements the profile

• Teaching ingredient identity

  
  

Unrefined Cocoa Butter

Unrefined Cocoa Butter brings warmth and character — but I use it intentionally.

Not automatically.

A Little Chemistry Perspective

Both refined and unrefined oils are primarily:

• Triglycerides

• Built from fatty acids and glycerol

• Structurally similar at the core

The refining process does not change the fatty acid composition significantly.

It removes minor components.

That’s important to understand — because marketing often exaggerates the difference.

The Biggest Mistake I See Beginners Make

Choosing unrefined solely because it “sounds better.”

If your fragrance clashes...

If your cream discolors...

If your product oxidizes faster...

If your batches vary...

You will wish you had chosen differently.

Start stable.

Start controlled.

Then experiment.

Final Thoughts from Me to You

There is no superior choice.

There is only:

Appropriate for the formulation

Appropriate for the target market

Appropriate for the climate

Appropriate for your stability goals

I formulate based on science, not trends.

And once you understand the functional differences between refined and unrefined materials, your formulations become intentional — not emotional.

And that’s when you start formulating like a chemist.

With love and formulation precision,

Kennece

Your Cosmetic Chemist